Friday, November 20, 2015

Week 15

The program is now officially over: the classes, tests, presentations, and papers are done.  Taxis have begun arriving to take students to the airport.  Our last night together included a reception with appetizers and desserts, a slide show, and a few short speeches.  Then came the hugging and crying.  We all agree that it has been a wonderful semester with many opportunities for learning, for travel, and for making friends—often all at once!


Out group photo now hangs in the dining hall with many others
The tall white guy is Wellington, sporting a blue and white mask--like the Scottish flag


Dalkeith Town Walk

One day this week I took a wee walk around Dalkeith town to explore a bit more.  I learned about some historic buildings, found new paths to the river, and wandered into some lovely courtyards of the main street.


Literally, down by the riverside


The old Corn Exchange being re-made into a historcial center


Hard to believe this is just off the main street--
It's shielded from that by the buildings that are behind where I stood to take this photo


Wrought iron detail at St. Nicholas of Buccleuch chirch


Water tower, circa 1879


The old iron works, also down by the riverside


Elephant House

On a recent trip to Edinburgh, I finally had coffee at Elephant House, billed as the “birthplace” of Harry Potter since J. K. Rowling spent time writing there.  The back room has big windows that overlook Greyfriars Kirkyard where she found some of the names used in the books.  Other writers, including Ian Rankin, have had characters who stop to eat at Elephant House.  If you do, I’d recommend the shortbread.


Yes, the shortbread--nothing Republican about it : )



What's Next? 

Marie will be here soon, and we will travel together for 8 days.  The Christmas market is just starting in Edinburgh, so we will take in that as well as other sights and a quick trip to France.  We also plan to do a one-day tour to the Highlands; this time I think I will see it with snow on the mountains.  She and I will be together for Thanksgiving for the first time in 4 years.  We will have a special meal and think of our wonderful family and friends for whom we are deeply grateful. 

After she leaves, I will travel to London for a few days and to Norway for a weekend to see Aurora.  If time allows, I will end with a few days in Italy.  More to be thankful for!  However, all the travel means that this blog will be sporadic at best.  When I get a chance, I will share some stories from the last part of this journey.


Sunday, November 15, 2015

Week 14

Our weeks are slipping away, and we are beginning to bring closure to our wonderful semester in Scotland.  I will miss this place and these students, even as I look forward to returning home.  We all are feeling pulled in two directions.  We also are thinking and talking lots about the people of Paris and praying for their healing and for our world.


York, England

My class got invited to join the theatre class for a day-trip to York, England (about 2 hours away by train).  The central part of York is an old city surrounded by Roman walls.  We explored that and York Minster, a huge and beautiful cathedral.  Then we took a tour that focused on the mystery plays from medieval times and the modern revival and production of them.  We met the guide, Warwick, at the Museum Garden Gate, then walked together to All Saints Church (formerly Catholic, now Church of England).  That church was chosen for the tour because of its large number of medieval stained glass windows, some of which contain images of the same Biblical stories that were presented in the mystery plays.  While we were at the church, Warwick explained the plays, the guild structure and the guilds’ involvement in producing the plays, and the images in the stained glass windows.  Then we left the church and walked the route the plays used as they moved through town with their wagons/sets and the actors performed their shows 12-18 times.  These plays were started in medieval times but stopped during the Reformation.  The modern performances began in the 1950s.


York Minster--west entrance


King's Screen


York Minster--choir


One of the Minster's many beautiful stained glass windows


From York Minster Tower looking west over the nave toward the city beyond


A view of a section of the Roman wall from the Tower


Interior--All Saints Church


Detail from stained glass in All Saints, note the Middle English caption


The Shambles, a 15th century cobbled street


York covered market


Robert Louis Stevenson Week

Since Robert Louis Stevenson was born on November 13 in Edinburgh, the city celebrates this famous literary figure with a week of events to coincide with that date.  This year the events ranged from a play about his life and a lecture (by the RLS Club) on movie adaptations of his work to a retelling of “Kidnapped” and a tour of the anatomical museum at the university.  The session we attended was a telling of stories by and about Stevenson, and it was hosted by Ferguson McNicol and Claire McNicol.  This event at the Storytelling Centre included audience participation in a quiz on RLS and with audience members volunteering to tell stories or read poems.  In addition to those by RLS, there were also some tales of travel and adventure.  When the hosts greeted us at our table, we learned that Ferguson had lived in Minnesota for a year while working at Wolf Ridge Environmental Learning Center, where he got his start as a storyteller.  He was delighted to talk to someone who not only knows of the place but who has been there and whose children loved their week there.


The Contrast of the Week—Fort Kinnaird and Duddingston

One of my colleagues rented a car for the last two weeks he is here, so we got a chance to do a couple of afternoon outings this weekend.  Saturday we drove to Fort Kinnaird to see a movie.  The very new movie theatre is in a shopping mall not unlike those in the US.  It even has a Pizza Hut, Five Guys, and TK Maxx (that’s the UK name for TJ Maxx).  We saw The Lady in the Van with Maggie Smith as the lady.  It is based on a true story in which a homeless woman parks her van in a writer’s driveway for a few months—which turns into 15 years.  It’s delightful film that made us laugh and cry and laugh again.  It’s written by Alan Bennett, who is, of course, the writer with the driveway.  I haven’t included any pictures of the Fort Kinnaird because you all know what it looks like—it could be just off the freeway anywhere in the US.

On Sunday we drove to Duddingston, a small village to the east of Aruthur’s Seat.  That means it is in the city of Edinburgh but separated from it by that volcanic dome.  Part of the village's fame is from Loch Duddingston, home to many birds and the place the reverend is ice skating in a famous portrait by Henry Raeburn.  The old church and a house where Bonnie Prince Charlie stayed are other notable sights.  We enjoyed lunch there at the Sheep Heid (pronounced “heed,” means “head”) Inn to celebrate the birthday of one of our colleagues.


Sheep Heid Inn


Looking out through the old glass window


Duddingston Kirk, 12th century


Arthur's Seat trail head

Sunday, November 1, 2015

Week 12

The last module of classes started this week, and even though we are a wee bit droopy from our travels over fall break, classes began with enthusiasm for the new subjects at hand.  I am teaching Introduction to Communication to a smaller group of students; we’re enjoying it already.  We have covered quite a bit of material and been on our first field trip (see below).  The house staff also organized a two-castle day trip that got us into the countryside again. 

The Scottish International Storytelling Festival has been going on for the past ten days, with a variety of events around the theme of “Stories without Borders.”  The other big event of the week was Halloween.  Any day of the year, one can go on a ghost tour or dungeon tour in Edinburgh, so they are well set up for a ghoulish party.

Stirling Castle and Linlithgow Palace

Stirling is about an hour from Edinburgh and is an ancient seat of power, partly because of its location at a good point for crossing the River Forth.  The castle sits on a volcanic outcrop similar to the one Edinburgh Castle sits on (supposedly, on a clear day, one can be seen from the other).  Between 1500 and 1600, new buildings were added that showed the influence of the Renaissance and that were intended to show the power and sophistication of the Scots.



James IV added buildings, including the Great Hall in about 1500



This beautiful window in the Great Hall provides a beautiful view toward Edinburgh


James V initiated the spectacular Palace, with interiors that have been researched 
and re-done to show it as it might have looked in the 1545.  This room in the King's Inner Hall, with a spectacular painted wood ceiling with carved heads of many famous people.



The Queen's Bedchamber--the king's and queen's apartments each contained 3 rooms.
They adjoined through a door locked from the Queen's side (smart lady).


The Queen's Inner Hall contains many lovely features, especially the Unicorn Tapestries.
The originals of these seven tapestries would have hung here in the 1500s, but are now owned by the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and hang in the Cloisters there.  The ones in Stirling are reproductions made as part of the renovation of the Royal Apartments.  Their creation took place over 13 years and involved 18 weavers, using both modern and ancient techniques. 
The tapestries are vibrant, beautiful, and tell a fascinating story.


 James VI commissioned the Chapel Royal in 1594


From Stirling Castle, the William Wallace Monument is visible against the hills.
It marks the victory of Wallace over the English in the Battle of Stirling Bridge in 1297.
Ever seen Braveheart?  That's the guy.


Linlithgow Palace sits between Stirling and Edinburgh and was one of the places the royals went to get away from work.  The grounds include a lovely loch (manmade) and peel (park).  King James V and his daughter, Mary, Queen of Scots, were both born in this palace.  It was ruined (mainly by a fire) nearly 200 years ago, but the rock structure is still fairly in-tact.  It provided an interesting contrast to the Palace at Stirling—it was as though we could see what was underneath all of that opulent décor.


Above the gate is the same insignia as on the ceiling in the King's Bedchamber in Stirling


From the outside the palace looks less ruined than it is


Inside you can climb one of the towers and get a view of the ruins, loch, and park


The Great Hall is great, but bare


The size of the main fireplace in the kitchen gives a sense of the scale of the place


International Storytelling Festival

The first field trip for my class this module was to a Storytelling Festival workshop called “The Ties that Bind: Word Dancing with Shonaleigh.”  The focus was on using language effectively to better manage conflict, and on acknowledging that each party involved in the conflict has a story.  Shonaleigh is a storyteller from an ancient Jewish women’s tradition, having learned thousands of stories from her grandmother (a Holocaust survivor).  She based some of the workshop on her current work with international human rights trials.  It fit very well with our course content, and students enjoyed the opportunity to interact with others and to see the course concepts applied in this way.


John Knox House, occupied by the famous Protestant reformer in the 1560s, and
now home of the Scottish Storytelling Centre


John Knox House


I attended another Storytelling Festival event on my own one afternoon.  It was held at the Royal Botanical Garden Edinburgh and was called “Tree Trails.”  Two storytellers, Janis Mackay and Ken Shapley, led the group around the Garden, stopping occasionally for a story that featured a type of tree nearby.  We heard the tale of the Prince and the Birch Lady; we learned how the rowan tree came to Scotland (that story included leprechauns and a giant); we heard a poem about which wood is best to burn in a fireplace (see below).  One of the storytellers also played the digeridoo and had several interesting wood sticks and staffs that we learned about—like the piece of yew that one could write a New Year’s Resolution on to help it come true.  Of course, the resolution had to be written in ancient runes so the magic would work : )


 At this tree we listened to Ken's story and digeridoo


and then tied a strip of cloth in the tree as we made a wish

The fall colors in the Garden were very nice, but as I left in the late afternoon, the lights and sound for their fall event, “Botanic Lights: A Night in the Garden,” were coming on.  It was lovely in the waning light; I'm sure it was magical after dark.







Halloween

Businesses from pubs to toy stores decorated for Halloween.  Special concerts and other events were held, and for the whole weekend, the city centre was crowded with adult revelers.  The children put on costumes for parties, but there is not so much Trick or Treating here.  The Storytelling Festival also had several events for different ages, from the “Guisers Trail” (a walk through the old town in costume or mask—a disguise—singing, dancing, and reciting poems) to the “Samhuinn Fire Festival” (the Beltane Fire Society celebrating the Celtic New Year—marking the end of summer and welcoming winter—with a torch-lit procession of acrobatics, costumes, and performances).  And yes, there were a more than a few fireworks shot off. 




If you are wondering what I did, I stayed at the house.  I was the staff person on duty, so I needed to answer the phone and door and be nearby.  However, the staff and students who stayed in had some old-fashioned fun with a bonfire and snacks and pumpkin carving and costumes.  I am happy to report that there were no major incidents and that everyone got back safely from whatever they did.  I also can report that the house was very quiet Sunday morning.


Firewood Poem—for those of you getting firewood ready for winter

The poem about firewood is old and can be found in many versions; this one, attributed to Lady Celia Congreve, is the one the storyteller recited—from memory, of course.

Beechwood fires are bright and clear
If the logs are kept a year,
Chestnut's only good they say,
If for logs 'tis laid away.
Make a fire of Elder tree,
Death within your house will be;
But ash new or ash old,
Is fit for a queen with crown of gold

Birch and fir logs burn too fast
Blaze up bright and do not last,
it is by the Irish said
Hawthorn bakes the sweetest bread.
Elm wood burns like churchyard mould,
E'en the very flames are cold
But ash green or ash brown
Is fit for a queen with golden crown

Poplar gives a bitter smoke,
Fills your eyes and makes you choke,
Apple wood will scent your room
Pear wood smells like flowers in bloom
Oaken logs, if dry and old
keep away the winter's cold
But ash wet or ash dry
a king shall warm his slippers by.



Sunday, October 25, 2015

Weeks 10 & 11

Fall break—what a concept!  Kathy Steffen and I travelled through Scotland and Ireland, seeing sites, meeting people, and soaking up the history and culture while we talked and talked.  As they used to say in the small town newspapers, “a good time was had by all.”  Below are a few of the highlights of our time together:

Scottish Highlands

Loch Ness delighted us with still waters, fall colors, and morning mist.  Plus Urquhart Castle--that's ur-curt (I remember the pronunciation because it makes me think of my brother, Curt).




Loch Lochy lulled us on a sunny day and a roadside food truck, “Burger Queen,” provided the picnic. While we nibbled and watched the sailboat across the way, some kayakers paddled up from the other direction.




Glasgow offered up a west end area with lively night life and yummy tapas; the walking tour (thanks to the Rick Steves guidebook) gave us many views of art.


The Glasgow Museum of Modern Art, note the "hat" on the statue of Wellington


The tearooms designed by Charles Rennie Macintosh


Chairs by Mactintosh


The Glasgow School of Art, also by Mactintosh, reflected in the window of the 
modern addition to the school (look for me there, too, in the blue jacket)


The Kelvingrove Museum in the background, ride-share bikes in the foreground 
(I couldn't resist that pink)


Southern Ireland                                                                           

On our way from Dublin heading west to Galway, we stopped to admire the lakes and rivers, fields and streams.  Galway regularly gets voted the best city in Ireland, and it would get my vote, too.  With a pleasant bayside walking area and quaint pedestrian shopping street, it is easy to see why.  As we wandered, we heard someone call Kathy’s name, and there was a woman she’d gone to college with, also enjoying the best city in Ireland.  Small world!




I’ve seen many pictures of the Cliffs of Moher but had not comprehended the scale of them—700 feet from the top to the water and stretching for 5 miles.  That’s some serious cliffs!




The last night on our tour, we stayed in Killarney.  Our tour group had been enjoying each other's company on the bus, but this night brought us together with folks from Chile, China, and Germany.  We found dinner at the Granery, ice cream at Murphy’s, and music at the Grand.  The traditional music (the folks sitting around the table in the corner) got us all there, but the rock band kept the younger ones there until late. 



If you go to Ireland, you should know these words:  craic (pronounced the same as crack) but meaning “good” or “news.”  Someone might say, “this ice cream is craic,” or they might ask you, “what’s the craic?”  Another phrase to know is pog mo thoin, which means ‘kiss my ___.”  I wouldn’t mention it here except that we loved the punny t-shirt at Murphy’s Ice Cream Shop:




Edinburgh Area

We explored museum houses in Edinburgh, ranging from the 1550s in Mary King’s Close to the 1800s in the Georgian House.  Quite a study in contrasts!  We also visited the Writers’ Museum, which features the three best-known writers from Scotland: Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson.  It’s housed in a tall building (Lady Stair's House) just off the Royal Mile and has fascinating displays and knowledgeable guides.  Nothing like two English teachers to enjoy a literary place such as this.




Kathy got a chance to walk around Dalkeith and the grounds at the house.  We also went to the nearby town of Roslin to see the Rosslyn Chapel.  No photography is allowed in the chapel, but these details from the outside should give you an idea of how incredible the carvings on the interior are.






Now Kathy has gone back to Minnesota, and we begin the last of our modules here at Dalkeith House.  Students are returning with stories of their own travels.  Let’s hope they saved a little energy for studying : )

One last picture from Edinburgh--creative use of a telephone booth: